Sunday, February 15, 2015

I am only one...

Today was a particularly hard day. On Sundays we feed homeless children living in a slum next to the railroad tracks. These children typically dig through the trash to for their meals. It’s a tragic picture. Beautiful, bright-eyed little boys and girls ages 3 months to 13 years old, covered in dirt, playing amongst the ruins. They are uninhibited by the broken glass, dead rats and barbed wire as they chase each other around the tracks.


Street kids have a distinct look. The difference is in their eyes. They possess an untamed beauty, as if they hold a raw truth the rest of us can’t see. The reality is their lives ARE untamed and raw. They live a reality I can't even pretend to know.

The children start to swarm as we pull pots of rice and dhal from the backseat of our car. They fight to help carry the makeshift water jug made from a plastic garbage pail. We remove our shoes and climb the ledge to the small little Hindu temple where we set-up an assembly line of rice, dhal, salt, chillies and bananas. The children are told they wash their hands with soap and water (from our little bucket)before they can eat. You have to regulate the water station because they try to drink the water, which although might be cleaner than the water they typically drink is not potable.

With clean hands they crowd around the feeding line. Children of 4 years old carry babies of 12 months. They look at you with their dirty little faces and runny noses smiling as you dish them a warm home-made meal.

Some of the older boys show up high. The depravity and hopelessness of their existence drives many kids in the slums to huff white-out in a desperate attempt to escape their reality. You see them walking around with rags up to their faces, inhaling chemical hope. Some look as young as 9 or 10.

Today, a woman frantically told our translator her husband had been burned and wanted to know if we could come see him. I followed her around a broken barbed fence over sharp stones and human feces near the train tracks. Pigs and naked barefoot children walked around me until we reached a pile of stone pylons covered with a ripped tarp and about 10 people gathered around a man in his mid 20’s. His face, arms and torso were covered in 3rd degree burns. His skin was sloughed off leaving him to shiver under the hot sun. He was emaciated and dehydrated, his eyes sealed shut by melted eyelids.

My stomach made the all too familiar ascent into my chest as I took it all in. His clothes caught fire after from a cooking fire about 11 days ago. Apparently he was treated at a hospital for 2 days after which time they sent the family “home” because they could not afford to pay for a longer stay.

His wife poured the contents of a plastic bag at my feet. It included a liter bag of IV saline, IV antibiotics and IV pain medicine. He had a few oral antibiotics and vitamin C. This is what he was given for his recovery. Whom the doctors expected to give him IV medications was unclear. He lay there shaking and moaning, surrounded by flies with nothing but a dirty sari covering his body.

His wife asked me if I could help.  Could I get him admitted to a hospital? Could I give them more medicine or creams? I instantly knew his outlook was grim to say the least. I felt so incredibly small, so helpless, so powerless in an area I’m supposed to be good at. He was beyond hope, even if I could get this man to a hospital, he would most likely lay on a dirty mattress on the ward floor waiting to die from infection and dehydration. His fluid loss was extensive, he looked cachectic and likely septic.

In my head I churned over the logistics of getting him to a hospital. Could I get him off the tracks and into a car without causing more suffering? How does the system work here? Will they even admit him? Surely he must have been worse when they sent him out in the first place.

At a loss, I told them to keep him hydrated, give him fluids every hour, and keep him covered. Make sure he continues his oral antibiotics and try to get him to eat.  I admitted I wasn’t sure I could do much, but that I’d try.

I left feeling defeated, totally inadequate and sick over the gravity of suffering in this world. They say one person can make a difference; you change the world one small action at a time. But sometimes your small actions don’t feel big enough.

How do you know you when you are doing everything you can do? You could spend 24 hours a day trying to alleviate suffering and still find yourself surrounded by it. Yet if you stop, can’t you argue you could’ve continued longer? How do you know when you need to keep pushing and when you just need to light a candle and say a prayer?

I don’t have the answers. I feel small and my soul feels heavy. Helen Keller said, “I am only one, but still I am one. I cannot do everything, but still I can do something; and because I cannot do everything, I will not refuse to do something that I can do.” 

I called my good friend Kristin. She's been living here for 4 years, she serves these families in the slum. She helped formulate a plan for tomorrow. For tonight, I lit a candle and said a prayer. For now...it's all I can do. 

These beauties give me so much joy

Thankful mom brings her baby for needed food
This little 3 year old toddles in with her 6 year old sister


One of our regular little girls, she likes to help carry the water
6 month old baby born in the slums to a 13 year old mom


The slum where these kids live


Saturday, January 31, 2015

Two weeks in India


           I had a moment on the plane. One of those moments where you stop for a minute, just one minute to bask in the beauty of life.  I can’t accurately put into words what overcame me. I looked out the plane window somewhere over the Middle East and thought, “Wow…so this is where it all leads”. 

The past year has been a whirlwind to say the least. It’s been chalk full of failure, uncertainty, love, loss, grief and frustration.  But for some reason, all I feel is overwhelming gratitude. The things my former self might have considered failures have turned out to be the most incredible gifts I’ve ever received. That moment on the plane, I felt the gravity of that gratitude. For however brief my soul was overcome with thankfulness, I felt unadulterated joy, happiness; in it’s purest sense, and I cried.

I wish I could tell you every day since my arrival in India has been laced with the same sentiment.  My first week was overwhelming to say the least. My first “oh shit” moment came when the hot water in my shower (which by the way is a generous term for the spicket that comes out of my bathroom wall) didn’t work. It took a good 10 minutes of talking myself into the ice cold water. You’d be surprised how many excuses you can come up with for NOT showering.

India IS overwhelming. It’s overwhelming and confusing on every level. It’s brimming with life, and life is both overwhelming and confusing.  It’s real, it’s dirty, it’s smelly, it’s heartbreaking, it’s loud and yet at the same time it’s vivid, it’s vulnerable, it’s vibrant, and it’s incredibly beautiful.

Walking to work I literally run the gamut of human emotions. I pass a woman colorfully covered in a pink sari bending over a campfire to cook breakfast for her family, and I smile.  Almost simultaneously I turn the corner and step over the saddest dog I’ve ever seen. The balding patches on his fur reveal a bony skeleton and his eye is sealed shut by a thick layer of blood and grime. He doesn’t move out of the way because he doesn’t have the energy to. My hand instinctively covers my heart and my belly, anything to appease the sinking feeling I can’t escape. I feel helpless.

On the same road full grown men stop me to ask “Excuse me mam, from where are you from?” Their curiosity amuses me. I stop to buy oranges, 24 for $1.50 from the man with a limp and a lazy eye. Lately he’s been lighting incense in the middle of the piles, I guess it’s good for advertising?  His excitement to sell me a bundle of oranges dismays me.

A few meters further I pass a family of 4 living on the sidewalk under a heap of newspapers, cardboard boxes and dirty tarps.  This time I can’t keep walking. I give them my lunch of PB&J and a handful of oranges. Their gratitude for my meager offering humbles me.

Boys on bikes with bushels of dead chickens hanging off the sides and men with long poles carrying massive baskets of eggs pass me by.  Smells of roti and dhal start to fill the air as the street vendors begin their cooking for the day.  Everyone stares at me. I guess I stand out. They have no qualms about staring at the strange white girl as they sip their morning chai.

So this is India. This is my new home. It’s a crazy place. I’m sure I’ll have a few breakdowns. I’m sure I’ll laugh until my stomach hurts as I take in all the strange sights and inconsistencies. I know I’ll cry, but most of all I’ll be truly ALIVE.  I’ll experience life in its confusing, overwhelming and raw beauty.  As they say here “Let’s wait and see”. 





















Wednesday, January 7, 2015

Surrender

Surrender

Waiting. Patience, a virtue I have yet to master. Why in life do we find it most difficult when we have ZERO control?

Today my mom came home crying. Today my visa was postponed. Today, I feel helpless. Today, I wait. I wait for some higher power, surrendering to divine intervention, a sign to justify my waiting. Hair twirling, feet tapping,  clothes folded, unfolded…I wait.

I have such an ingrained need to FIX. Some things just need time to heal. A wound, no matter how well you dress it, how great the salve you slather, still needs time. I need to learn the art of waiting, surrendering to time. The art of letting life, BE life, too fast, too slow, never just right, always just a little uncomfortable, always a bit out of the expected.  Life.

My mom came home crying. She is exhausted by her passion, by her love, and her desire to be her best. We always fail. Does this need for perfection ever end? Are we always living with the assumption that we are great con artists?  "Someday they will realize I have NO idea what I’m doing”.  When do we stop believing we are fraudulently impersonating OUR OWN lives? When do we believe someone else will love us as fully as we love our beloved? 

As a child, whenever I had a hard day my mom would tell me my grandmother, Genevieve Riesterer always told HER, “this too will pass”.  She’s right, all things pass, this waiting, this feeling of helplessness. All will pass.

For now, I choose beauty, I choose truth, I choose vulnerability…I choose LOVE. I held my mom tonight, the woman who so bravely brought me into this world, the woman who spent countless sleepless nights rocking me to sleep, watching over me until my eyes closed. Tonight, for a few minutes, I was able to hold HER while she cried. I tucked HER into bed. I finally had the chance to tell HER, “This too will pass”.

Life…you tricky bastard.  Thank you for uncertainty, thank you for vulnerability, and thank you for teaching me the beauty of waiting. Thank you for postponed visas, thank you for uncertainty. Thank you for making me wait. 

I see now. I SURRENDER. 


Very little grows on jagged rock.
Be ground.  Be crumbled.
So wild flowers will come up
Where you are.

You have been stony for too many years.
Try something different.  Surrender.
-Rumi






Monday, December 15, 2014

Transitions

I was at a Christmas party this weekend when someone casually asked me, where I live. Normally this is pretty basic Q&A party convo.  But I stood there, deer in the headlights, struggling with the answer until I awkwardly blurted out, "Well...I'm kind of homeless". Yep, that's me, 35 years old, masters degree, loads of student debt and well...homeless.

Turns out, following your heart requires a lot of sacrifice and a whole lot of uncertainty. I've been quiet on the blog scene for a few months. When things are tough, it's easier to hide than to live your vulnerabilities in print. This being said, it's when we are most vulnerable that we connect the most with those around us. 

My decision to leave Honduras was not easy by any means. It came abruptly yet it was necessary.  I was serving our precious little Honduran patients, mothers fanning babies suffering for hours in squelching heat to see me. I loved every minute of those visits, loved those adorable little hands and those runny little noses, but I hated that I had so little to offer in return. Our clinic didn't have basic vitamins or paper towels to dry your hands after washing. I would lance abscesses without as much as antibiotic ointment to put on the wound. It was appalling, really. 

I was constantly petitioning the non-profit I represented for funds to supply these necessities, and yet the answer was often "we need to focus more on sustainable projects", translation, no! The ugly truth is despite our lack of funds, I was asked by our academic partner for signatures on research projects. Projects born in SF to be carried out in a hospital that didn't even have running water. Ideas from academics who wanted grants or research without any question as to if it was even needed or wanted by those it most affected. Morally, I just couldn't be a part of it. 

I believe global health should be a bottom up approach. Research, projects, ideas and initiatives should originate from those who are most affected. The incentive should be born by the people you hope to serve. Then, you take those needs, those desires for change, and make them a reality by plugging in your resources in a SYMBIOTIC exchange. The idea that WE have all the answers, and WE know what needs to happen is not only offensive, it's just inaccurate. 

In light of this revelation and let's be honest with an empty bank account, I moved back to California.
Finding myself yet again with a blank slate and a questionable future, I tried to remain calm in the face of uncertainty. I was crashing in my brother's old bedroom (my poor parents have yet to experience an empty nest), and working temp jobs while trying to figure out WHAT in the world I would do next. 

Around this time my mom asked, "Why don't you just work for Operation Smile? That's always where you are the happiest?". I didn't know of any paid jobs with Op Smile. I'd been volunteering with them since 2008 but it was always just that, voluntary.  Well, fate has a funny way of showing up when you least expect it to. It's kind of like the guy you're crushing on who waits until 8 pm on a Friday to ask you on a Saturday date. Just when you've sworn him off, BOOM he calls. And so it goes, the morning after a pity party, I woke with swollen eyes and a bit of a wine headache to find an email from Op Smile waiting ever so patiently in my inbox. WANTED: Full-time nurse educator for position in Guwahati India. 

Ummm...YESSSS!  I told them they had to hire me because my mom thinks I'm perfect for the job (obviously the best way to approach a cover letter)! Turns out I had some stiff competition, my best friend also applied! She's basically an Op Smile rock star so I knew it'd be tough call. I can honestly say I believe in her so much that I felt that if either one of us got the job, it really was the right decision. She is hands down fantastic. 

I waited in agony until October. Here I am, about to board a flight to Dominican Republic for yet another Op Smile mission when I see an email stating that they want to interview me! Whoohoo! Well, guess what? I arrive to our first team dinner...mind you we are in Dominican Republic and guess who is sitting across the table? Alex and Carolina, basically the mom and pop of all things Op Smile India. Alex and Carolina started the Guwahati project from the ground up. They are responsible for taking it from an empty room to the leading cleft center in the world. And here they are...at my dinner table...IN DOMINICAN REPUBLIC.

And it get's better...just for background...I met them 7 years ago in Alexandria Egypt when they first met and consequently fell in love! Carolina was my roommate when they were surgical residents. I even had a photo of Alex on the phone with her at the pyramids on a camel! It suffices to say I felt like Santiago in Paulo Cohelo's Alchemist. Yes to India, yes to my destiny...YES to UNCERTAINTY...YES TO CHANGE. 

And so it happened...I'm moving to Guwahati India the beginning of January. My job will entail being a nurse educator for the local Indian Op Smile nurses. We are developing curriculum and training nurses to become advocates and leaders in the field. This job couldn't be more perfect for me. It's a mix of all things pura allegra; travel, adventure, clinical care, teaching, mentoring and encouraging nurses to reach their fullest potentials.

So that's how it happens, 35, years old, single, "high class homeless" and ready to embrace another year of highs and lows doing what I love.
My new temp job USA style! 

Carolina, Me and Alex in their private practice in Cartagena, Colombia
Last few days in Roatan, Honduras

Dominican Republic Mission...where I re-met Alex and Carolina after 7 years

Alex getting that fateful call from Carolina...the moment destiny intervened 

Saturday, April 12, 2014

Camp for Grown Ups


I just got back from a week and a half in Chiapas, Mexico with Operation Smile. 
Operation Smile missions are equivalent to a strong cup of coffee on an early morning. They totally reinvigorate me, they fill me with pure joy and for the entire length of the mission my face is nothing but smiles. 

Between with my intensive graduate and post-graduate programs and my new role as a nurse practitioner I simply didn’t have the "luxury of time" to spend on these trips. I turned down opportunity after opportunity with Operation Smile to travel the world with incredible people while doing what I love. What I didn’t realize at the time was I didn’t have the "luxury" to say no either. Each time I turned down a mission it felt like a someone turned down the burner on my fire. 

This is why when I got a call 2 weeks before the Mexico Mission saying they needed a last minute recovery room nurse I jumped at the chance. Our work was based out of San Cristobal a charming little city in Mexico with a very European feel. It reminded me a lot of Antigua Guatemala with it’s cobblestone streets, flower boxes hanging from brightly painted houses, and live music on every corner. The streets are lined with pubs, wine bars, cafes and great little restaurants filed with bohemian Mexican hippies. The central park has a big white gazebo where you can order Mexican hot chocolate and listen to live calypso music. 
Small tienda in San Cristobal


Selling balloons in San Cristobal

San Cristobal
Yet beyond the beautiful esthetics of San Cristobal lie it’s most brilliant treasure, it’s indigenous people. Chiapas has 3 main indigenous ethnic groups each with their own distinct language and culture. It is one of the largest concentrations of indigenous populations in Mexico and with over 56 different languages spoken.
family waiting for screening wearing traditional clothes

Selling flowers on the streets of San Cristobal

Screening (the 2 day clinic where we screen kids for surgery) was filled with parents and children dressed in a manner distinct to their indigenous group. Many women wore colorful blouses with elaborate hand embroidered flowers and black wool rebozos which look like animal hair skirts. Their hair was neatly tied in two long braids with ribbon interwoven between the strands. 
Indigenous man entering a church


Indigenous woman

An indigenous woman selling handmade goods on the street

One such beautifully dressed indigenous girl was Xochil.  Xochil is a 12 year old girl born with a bilateral cleft lip which distorted her appearance so much so that her parents kept her home all day, everyday. In fact, the day I met her in clinic was the first time she’d ever left her house in her entire life.

Daniella, one of our outstanding volunteers came across her while searching for children in remote areas of Chiapas who needed help. With Daniella's encouragement, Xochil's family made the journey into San Cristobal and received a gift they never believed would be theirs; Xochil has a new smile. She can go to school for the first time in 12 years. She no longer has to hide inside her room imagining what life is like outside her door. She has a chance to live, to explore, to be a child! I couldn't help but beam as I handed Xochil back to her mom after her anesthesia wore off. Our entire team cried along with her family as they uttered a million thank you's and blessings. In reality, I was the one who felt totally and utterly blessed. 

Vania is another pumpkin who stole my heart during surgery week. Vania is a beautiful little 8 year old girl who had a cleft lip and a cleft palate repaired 2 years before which left her with a slightly deformed nose and a speech impediment. She was constantly bullied at school for her physical differences. In fact, when I met her she had a black eye from being beaten up at school the day before. Vania has the sweetest little smile and talks a mile a minute about disney princesses. Although her impediment made it difficult to understand much of what she was telling me, her spirit spoke volumes. 

When Vania's mom brought her to us she had convinced herself that we might not do Vania's surgery because in the past she'd been denied by previous doctors who told her it was unnecessary since it's "only cosmetic". She was so distraught that we might turn her down that she immediately began crying and pleading with us as soon as she walked in the room. We understood that although Vania's defect might appear cosmetic the wounds she suffered as a result of it were not merely superficial. Vania was selected for surgery that week, and now she has a beautiful little nose. 
Vania during screening week

Despite my  physical fatigue from working 14-16 hour days at the hospital, my soul never felt so alive. I found myself belly laughing at the silliest things and waking up with sore cheeks from smiling all day. We performed 106 surgeries on this mission, each one drastically changing the fate of children who might not otherwise have a shot at a normal life. I worked with an incredible team. I reunited with old friends I’d made all over the world on previous missions and made beautiful new ones who were immediate kindred spirits. As my friend Skylar said, “it’s like camp for grown-ups”.  A camp I can’t afford to miss out on!
Part of our international team, Guadalajara, El Salvador and California

A mom and her daughter just about to get vital signs done

A little pumpkin just waking up from anethesia

Kids waiting to be screened
Our Recovery Room Team
If you feel inspired to help me serve you can donate to my mission by clicking here. Every little bit helps! Thank you for your support! I could not do any of this without you!

Friday, February 28, 2014

Esperanza

My first day at Clinica Esperanza was fantastic. By the time I arrived at 7:30 am there was already a line of patients spilling out the door, over the deck on into the grass surrounding the clinic. I spent the day learning about common illnesses on the island and soaking up everything I could from Dr. Rapheal, a wonderful local pediatrician. We tested 3 children from malaria, thankfully none of which came back positive. I also learned that a plastic cup with a hole cut out the bottom makes a great spacer for asthma medications. 
Inside Clinica Esperanza
Clinica Esperanza
The Famous Miss Peggy with the poster in the airport that started this whole adventure for me!



I’ve also started working at the Public Hospital in Coxen Hole. There is a stark and tragic contrast between this and Esperanza. On my first day there I was horrified to open the door of what really appeared to be a shed outside the main building to find a woman with Dengue receiving a free flowing blood transfusion without any monitoring or medical personal in the room. The labor and delivery “unit” consisted of cots lined up side by side with nothing but buckets to use if they needed to use the bathroom. There was very little access to running water for hand washing. Many of the beds didn’t have linens and I was told many families just bring their own. Despite this Global Healing has started a wonderful pediatric clinic here and is working with UC Berkley and UCSF to bring greatly needed resources to the hospital.
Public Hospital

Labor and Delivery Ward

Operating Room

Global Healing Doctors waiting for patients to arrive


My week ended on a high note. We were invited to a joint meeting with all the local doctors and the Clinica Esperanza team in order to discuss emergency Medical Evacuation possibilities through the U.S. Military. They have decided to collaborate with us by helping to evacuate critically ill and unstable patients off the island to higher levels of care. This makes a life saving difference on the island for all the people living here who would otherwise not have such a chance. It’s such an incredible opportunity. And to put the cherry on top of it all they let me sit in the cockpit of the helicopter! 
Me with our Army Guys! 

Trying to look cool while not launch a missile accidentally

Reflecting on all the week I can’t get past the name of Clinica Esperanza. Esperanza is Spanish for hope. It couldn’t be a more fitting title and how ironic that it’s where I ended up. In the previous 6 months during the bleakest points of my depression, I found myself stripped of my ability to hope. The possibility of a brighter future felt so impossible I couldn’t even fathom it. Being such a naturally optimistic, positive person it was as if I’d completely loss the essence of myself. I distinctly remember the day I had my first glimmer of “esperanza”. It was simple and fleeting but for the few seconds it crossed my consciousness it felt like seeing a shooting star in the darkest night. 

Here I am six months later and I’ve launched myself into my greatest adventure yet, fully embracing a life I never imagined could be so colorful and working at “The Clinic of Hope”.

If you feel inspired to help me serve you can donate to my mission by clicking here. Every little bit helps! Thank you for your support! I could not do any of this without you!